Thai Food Primer

Sawadee Krup TBF Travelers!

Without a doubt the thing I miss the most about Thailand when I come back to California is the food. Unless my wife Worawan is still in Thailand . J I love Thai food, and love the fact that it is almost available any time any where when in Thailand ! That is one of the main differences about eating out here in the US versus over there in Thailand : almost any hour of the day or night you can find food, definitely in Bangkok , mostly on Koh Samui, and almost all the time at quieter local destinations. It definitely helps to learn how to spot certain types of Thai restaurants, food vendors, noodle carts, and roadside grills – something you will develop a skill for quickly on our trips. But before that it is good to know some basics about eating in Thailand that you may not learn from guidebooks.

In Thailand each meal starts with the rice. Rice, or “Khao” (sounds like cow) is the staple food of Thailand and its main export; number one in the world in rice exports until just very recently – so the Thai people never touch any of the food dishes setting on the table until rice is on their plate. In fact, the Thai expression for “gonna eat” is ‘gin khao’ or: eat rice. Once they are served rice then the various meat and vegetable dishes will be added on top of or around the rice. Thai people eat food with a spoon and fork at the same time, using the spoon in their dominant hand to scoop and eat, and the fork as the assist hand stirring and pushing food onto the spoon. This allows greater sensory approval of the flavors of Thai food and helps in scooping up rice soaked in curry or mixed with a stir fried dish.

When it comes to Thai food you can enjoy many different dishes by ordering a type of Thai curry with either: chicken, pork or vegetables and tofu. You generally don’t want to order beef in Thailand ; unless you are eating upscale and the beef is visiting from Australia , and with fish it is better to enjoy the fresh flavor of the fish rather than bury it in the curry. There are four types of curries in Thailand : green, red, yellow or ‘panang’, and ‘massaman’. In general: the green curry is sweet, unless they make it really hot and you ask for it that way in Thai, the red curry is the local curry and is usually very spicy to extremely spicy no matter how you ask for it, the panang curry is the middle ground curry – it can be really spicy and make you cry, or can be sweet and tingly and make you smile, and massaman curry is the curry with potatoes. Massaman is never really spicy and usually has lots of Thai vegetables and sometimes meat on the bone if you order chicken or pork. Not all the curries will be available everywhere – and they will vary in flavor and ingredients from region to region within Thailand , but you can always find them on the menu.

Chicken is always fresh and besides being served in curry it is served over steamed rice, stir fried with garlic and black pepper, stir fried with Thai basil and Thai peppers, stir fried with oyster sauce, stir fried in spicy red peppers with green beans, stir fried with mixed vegetables, or stir fried with cashew nuts. Pork is served basically in all the same dishes as chicken, except for bbq pork tenderloin or ‘moo dang’ which is always recognizable by the long hanging columns of red pork loins in windows and is served in noodle soup, and ‘khao kha moo’ which is stewed ham hock over rice – and delicious! Down south at restaurants that are Muslim pork will not be available, but there will be more seafood choices.

Most Thai dishes can be served mild or spicy, some are naturally spicy, and some are never spicy. That is something you just have to learn from ordering and eating Thai food in Thailand . A green papaya salad that sounds safe is one of the spiciest dishes you can order and basil chicken while sounding safe can in many places be a 4-alarm fire in your mouth. You are reasonably safe though – at every restaurant, every waitress and waiter understands “not spicy” in English. Actually, most of the time they will assume that you don’t want spicy so unless you specifically ask for it spicy it is likely to be ‘toned down’ because you are not Thai. A trick to insure that your “super spicy please” request makes it through the local language barrier is to ask for it in Thai by saying: “ped mog mog” which means: very spicy. This will work with most Thai dishes while sometimes it will just get you a shaker of Thai chili powder to sprinkle on your food.

Besides rice and the ‘main dishes’ a big part of Thai food is noodles. There are many different types of noodle dishes in Thai food with the most popular being ‘Pad Thai’. This is a noodle dish served usually with shrimp or tofu, bean sprouts, peanuts and fish oil. Another popular noodle dish is called: ‘pad see ew’ sometimes known as “chow fun”. These rice noodles are usually stir fried in soy sauce with egg, meat and vegetables, if you ask for them served “drunken” they will usually be extra spicy. The types of noodles used in dishes changes from region to region. In Chiang Mai a dish of local noodles would be very different from a dish of noodles in Krabi or on Koh Samui. Most noodle dishes are not spicy with the exception of drunken noodles or ‘pad kee mao’. If you find a noodle dish you really like you can order it day after day and almost never get the same dish. On my first trip to Thailand I really liked pad thai and ordered it every day, sometimes twice a day and it was always different and delicious. Same same but different, as they say in Thailand .

One of the joys of eating in Thailand is the abundance of exotic fresh fruits and vegetables that are available every day. You will get to sample a dozen or more new fruits and vegetables and discover your own new favorites plus taste some really flavorful versions of old favorites like bananas, mangos, pineapples, oranges, and melons all grown in Thailand and more full of flavor. There are lots of Thai vegetables eaten on a regular basis – you will have to go out-of-your-way to avoid anything green when ordering and eating in Thailand . One oddity is that iceberg lettuce is considered a delicacy in Thailand and is almost never carelessly placed as a garnish. One of mine and Eats’ favorite Thai vegetable dishes is called stir fried morning glory on fire or ‘pak boong fai dang’ in Thai. This is a mustard green or spinachy-like green stir fried in oyster sauce with garlic and a little or a lot of spicy red and green peppers. The ‘on fire’ part is in reference to how many peppers are used.

Fresh fruit will be available every morning at breakfast, which is served buffet style in all the places we will be staying. Along with the normal breakfast offerings of eggs, cereal, toast, fruit, yogurts, juices and other breakfast foods like pancakes, omelets, bacon/sausage and such there will always be a couple of Thai food dishes available. Breakfast is an important energy provider for the active days in Thailand and all of the locations we are staying at have been tested and approved in the ‘TBF Hearty Breakfast Challenge’. After breakfast we will always make a stop at one of the local markets: Family Mart or 7-Eleven, to stock up on water, other beverages (Thai energy drinks, juice, Thai ice coffees, mochas, and teas, birds nest soup drinks or fresh coconut, guava or sugar cane juice), or snacks. Plus we will always alert you to any road-side food opportunities as they arise. One of the benefits of being hungry in Thailand is the abundance of food choices. Some areas are known for certain types of food vendors and there will be dozens of them lined up and down streets, markets spring to life each morning and every night in every neighborhood where vendors and kitchens come out and offer there specialties to the crowds, and tucked among every stretch of rowhouse will be a ‘moo dang’ place or ‘khao man gai’ place or a noodle cart serving marinated pork tenderloin in a noodle broth soup with fresh green vegetables for about a dollar a bowl.

It is easy to eat ‘safe’ in Thailand if you are not a big fan of spicy and exotic foods. Fried rice is always safe: recognizable and not spicy. Cashew chicken is never served spicy – it is probably the number one tourist ordered ‘safe’ food. Stir fried mixed vegetables always supplies a delicious mix of familiar vegetables with some local vegetables. If you are feeling a bit unwell (I will cover “gastric distress” and how to prevent it and deal with it effectively in a later email) there is always ‘khao tom’ or rice soup which is a great stomach-filler and stomach-settler. If you want to experience the ‘wild side’ of Thai food there will be plenty of opportunities to sample local delicacies. There will be a chance to eat bugs in Bangkok, have deep fried giant tiger prawns or mussels served in blood on the coast, try the spiciest dish I have ever had in 12 years in Thailand at Khao Sok, order dried squid that has been sitting outside for days or have the smelliest fruit in the world that is actually banned in most restaurants and hotels. Thai food is definitely one of the main features and attractions on our Thailand Beach Adventure!

Bill

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